Susan M. Kleiner, PhD, RD, FACN, CNS

Had a craving for chocolate lately? You're in good company. Chocolate is the number one food craved by women. No surprise, really. We have good taste, and we're also in tune with our bodies. When we're feeling low or run down, a bit of chocolate not only is a way to pamper ourselves, but it actually works with our brain chemistry to lift our moods and make us feel better. The combination of sugar and fat in chocolate elevate two key neurotransmitters, serotonin and endorphins. Low levels of these brain chemicals are linked with depression and anxiety. By raising them you feel calmer, more relaxed and happier. Not bad for a few hundred calories.

The pivotal concept here is "a few hundred calories". The problem with chocolate is you can quickly go from there up to 1000 calories if you get carried away with how good you feel. Do this too often and "a moment on your lips becomes a lifetime on your hips". Overweight and obesity are major risk factors for chronic diseases like diabetes, heart disease and cancer. So in the struggle to ward off these unhealthy attributes, many of us have thrown the baby out with the bathwater. To avoid temptation, we don't eat chocolate at all, or at least, hardly at all.

An Apple Chocolate Bar a Day
Thank goodness for food scientists! The latest science on food and health is giving us all a reason to re-think our chocolate strategies. Eating chocolate may actually make us healthier. These studies have actually been going on for a number of years. It all started with the research on dietary saturated fats and their association with an increased risk of developing heart disease. Over a decade ago the discovery that stearic acid, the predominant saturated fat in chocolate, actually has a neutral effect on blood cholesterol levels exonerated chocolate from the list of foods that are bad for your heart. Even feeding subjects one whole chocolate bar a day didn't change levels of blood cholesterol.

Current research is even better. Spurred by the latest studies that show the health and life-extending benefits of antioxidants found in green tea and red wine, food scientists discovered similar compounds in cacao beans. A number of scientific journal articles have now documented the flavonol content of cacao beans, cocoa powder and chocolates. Flavanoids are a class of compounds found naturally in a variety of plant-based foods; flavonols are a specific type of flavonoid found predominantly in tea, red wine and cocoa. These compounds appear to have cardioprotective effects, including antioxidant properties, the ability to reduce the stickiness of blood cells, and even an effect on the lining of blood vessels so that they can remain dilated, allowing blood to pass more freely and keep blood pressure at normal levels.

Curious about the antioxidant content of cocoa compared to wine and tea, Dr. Chang Yong Lee of Cornell University tested the antioxidant content of each of the following three beverages: a cup of hot water containing two tablespoons of pure cocoa powder, a cup of water containing a standard size bag of green tea, a cup of black tea, and one glass of California Merlot (red wine). On a per serving basis, the antioxidant concentration in cocoa was the highest: almost two times stronger than red wine, 2-3 times stronger than green tea, and 4-5 times stronger than that of black tea. Dr. Lee also found that that hot cocoa triggers the release of more antioxidants than cold cocoa.

The latest study published by Dr. Mary Engler and colleagues at the University of California, San Francisco, investigated the effects of a flavonoid-rich dark chocolate on endothelial function (the function of the cells lining blood vessels), measures of oxidative stress, blood lipids, and blood pressure in 21 healthy adult subjects. The subjects were assigned to either a daily high-flavonoid or a low-flavonoid dark chocolate bar group, for 2 weeks. There were no obvious differences between the two bars. The subjects were instructed to keep their diets the same as usual, except to eliminate all other foods and beverages high in flavonoids, alcohol, vitamin supplements and non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs. The results showed that endothelial function improved with the consumption of the high-flavonoid chocolate bars. Blood vessels were more dilated and blood flow was freer. Other biochemical measures indicated a strong association with the intake of flavonoids. No differences in oxidative stress or lipid profiles were seen between the two groups.

The Conundrum
The natural benefactors of this research are the chocolate manufacturers, and they have been sponsoring much of this research either themselves or through their trade organization, the American Cocoa Research Institute. Mars Incorporated has been a leader in both the discovery of flavonols in chocolate, as well as the development of flavonoid-rich chocolate-based foods. Imagine selling chocolate candy that you market as a health food! Well, Mars isn't quite there, but they may be getting close.

The richest source of flavonols is cocoa powder. It is also the healthiest since it is devoid of sugar, and very low in fat and calories. Next on the list is baking chocolate and dark chocolate. Dark chocolates have twice the amount of flavonols as milk chocolate. Because so many people don't like the taste of very dark chocolate, Mars has been working on a process to enhance flavonol levels in chocolate candy. This is particularly difficult since the elevated flavonols cause a distinctly bitter taste. (In fact, the "dutching" process, which uses alkali to reduce the bitterness of cocoa powder, also reduces the natural level of flavonols.) But they have developed a taste profile successfully enough to bring a product to market.

The Cocoa Via bar (www.cocoavia.com), produced by Mars and available only on the internet, is the first chocolate candy marketed as a functional health food. It uses a proprietary formula to process the cacao beans in a way that maximizes the amount of flavonols remaining in the end product. Phytosterol, another food factor from plants that has cholesterol-lowering properties, is also added to the chocolate. The company claims that you get more flavonols per calorie in the Cocoa Via bar compared to any other chocolate bar on the market today. Depending on the flavor, one 22 gram bar contains 100 grams of flavonols, 80 calories, 2-3 grams of total fat (1 gram saturated), 13-15 grams of carbohydrate (7-9 grams of sugar), 1 gram of fiber and 1-2 grams of protein. A number of vitamins and minerals are also added to boost the nutritional profile.

The Taste Test
When it comes to eating chocolate, the bottom line is taste. I requested samples of Cocoa Via but did not receive them in time to write this article, so you'll have to try them for yourself to see if the taste passes muster.

I did taste another very high quality dark chocolate bar that was delicious. Dagoba chocolates (www.dagobachocolate.com) are a rich, gourmet-style chocolate that use forest (shade) grown organic cacao beans, and the majority of their beans are produced under "Fair Trade" practices. Dagoba chocolate bars come in a range of cacao percentages: 37% milk, 59% dark, 72% dark, 73% dark, 74% dark, and 87% dark. They also offer 100% cacao nibs, cacao powder and unsweetened chocolate. The darker the chocolate, the more concentrated the amount of cacao, and the higher the flavonol level. One 28 gram serving of a 74% dark bar contains 159 calories, 11 grams of total fat (7 grams saturated), 13 grams of carbohydrate (8 grams of sugar), 4 grams of fiber, and 3 grams of protein.

While Dagoba chocolates are marketed for their inspirational flavor and mouthfeel, the product website contains a great deal of information regarding the potential health-benefits of chocolate. There is also an emphasis on their environmental awareness and fair trade consciousness.

A different style of dark chocolate is made by Newman's Own Organics. They produce a sweet dark chocolate bar that is often preferred to the acquired taste of a high percentage cacao very dark chocolate. Newman's Own Organic emphasizes the organic nature of their product, and does not indicate any health-related benefits of their bar. One 34-gram sweet dark chocolate bar contains 172 calories, 11 grams of total fat (7 grams saturated), 21 grams carbohydrate (17 grams of sugar), 2 grams of fiber and 1 gram of protein.

Last on my list is the French side of my family's favorite: Valrhona chocolate (www.valrhona.com). Valrhona chocolate is all about taste; you won't find any reference to health here. The website says (in French, of course) "the source for grand chocolate", and when you read about their vintages and see the wooden crates, don't think that you've found a website about wine by mistake. Valrhona bars range from 71% cacao dark chocolate to 40% cacao milk chocolate. The reference to wine is close to the mark when you taste Valrhona's dark chocolate.

Healthful or Harmful?
Deciding which side of the line chocolate falls on goes back to two major tenets of nutrition: variety and moderation. To be sure, chocolate bars, whether very dark or milk, are high in calories, sugar and fat. When searching for sources of antioxidants in your diet, remember that fruits and vegetables, fish, nuts and seeds are rich sources of many important nutrients and antioxidants. Flavonol-rich cocoa is available in dark chocolate candy bars, cocoa powder and even desserts. On a regular basis it is probably best to get your flavonols from a cup of cocoa that is lighter in fat and calories, and that you can even make sugar-free (see recipe). Then, when you can really enjoy it, have your piece of dark chocolate like you would sip from a glass of fine wine. If you are looking for a good reason to eat chocolate, pampering yourself may be just as credible as its health benefits. But at least using chocolate for "medicinal purposes" is now an honest pursuit.

Table 1. Antioxidant Capacity of Foods
The Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity (ORAC) score measures total antioxidant power in foods. The higher a food's ORAC score, the better it is at fighting free radicals.

Try these recipes for a sugar-free or low-sugar chocolate treat.

Healthy Hot Cocoa
1 cup fat-free milk
1 tsp unsweetened cocoa powder
½ packet of Stevia

Heat milk in microwave. Add cocoa powder and Stevia and mix well. Enjoy.
Makes 1 serving
Each serving contains: 94 calories, <1 g total fat, 14 g carbohydrate, <1 g fiber, 9 g protein

The following recipes are from Diabetic Cooking, November/December 2004

Double Chocolate Biscotti
3 Tbsp sugar substitute
2 Tbsp unsweetened cocoa powder
3 Tbsp brown sugar
1 tsp baking powder
¼ tsp salt
¾ cup all-purpose flour
2 Tbsp chocolate syrup
2 egg whites, softly beaten
½ cup puffed wheat cereal
4 tsp sliced almonds

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Line baking sheet with parchment paper; set aside.
2. Mix sugar substitute, cocoa, brown sugar, baking powder, salt and flour ina medium bowl. Set aside.
3. Melt butter in small saucepan until golden brown. Remove from heat and pour into another bowl. Add chocolate syrup and egg whites. Stir butter mixture into dry ingredients to form stiff dough. Stir in cereal.
4. Turn dough out onto baking sheet and shape into a log 12 inches long, 2 inches wide. Press almonds onto log. Bake 20 to 25 minutes or until firm.
5. Remove from oven and cool completely. Use sharp serrated knife to slice loaf into ½-inch thick diagonal slices. Place slices, cut-side down, on baking sheet. Reduce oven temperature to 300 degrees F. Bake biscotti 10 minutes. Remove from oven and turn over biscotti slices to other side. Bake 10 minutes. Cool on wire rack

Chocolate Buttons
10 dates, pitted and chopped
½ cup water
¼ cup soft baking butter with canola oil
¼ cup bittersweet chocolate, chopped
¼ cup dark brown sugar
¼ cup fat-free sour cream
1 ½ cups flour
½ tsp baking soda
1/8 tsp salt
1 Tbsp unsweetened cocoa powder

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
2. Place dates and water in small covered saucepan over high heat; bring mixture to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and simmer until dates soften, about 1 minute. Place dates and cooking liquid in blender or bowl of food processor. Pulse on high until mixture turns pasty.
3. Melt butter and chocolate in small pan over low heat, stirring constantly. Remove from heat.
4. In medium bowl, mix flour, baking soda and salt with whisk; set aside.
5. In bowl of electric mixer beat date paste, melted chocolate mixture, sugar, and sour cream on medium speed until blended, scraping sides of bowl occasionally. Add flour mixture and beat on low speed to mix wet and dry ingredients, scraping sides of bowl to mix evenly.
6. Drop dough by level teaspoonfuls onto nonstick baking sheets. Sprinkle cocoa powder lightly over top of each cookie using small mesh sieve or tea strainer. Bake cookies 6 minutes until just set; do not overbake. Let rest on baking sheet 2 minutes before removing to wire rack to cool completely.

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